Met another incredible young woman traveler!

Saying goodbye to Istanbul wasn't difficult. It was a big, dusty city, but a wonderful one. It's easy to navigate, get lost, get found (with many helpful smiling people-most of whom want to sell you something!)

It is such an ancient and interesting place to get lost in! Winding, undulating cobblestoned streets leading hither and thither. Almost like a Harry Potter set...that is a very ancient place with shops lining the narrow streets. Touts are everywhere. It gets a little overwhelming sometimes, but there is always a nice little shop whose owner is anxious to bring you a tiny cup of sugary tea while you regroup.

The entire city is like a huge feast for the eyes. There is beauty everywhere...whether it's crafts like the ornate pottery platters, or textiles, or carpets, or food stalls. And the people are very attractive. Really...my eyes were tired of seeing beauty everywhere! This is a photo of the young woman-Noemi from Switzerland who had traveled Kurgestan, Kazakstan, Azerbajan, Armenia, Georgia...and finally Turkey. We left Istanbul at the same time...in opposite directions...but both headed for Bulgaria!?

Now I'm here resting and relaxing in Karin Dom, awaiting Ivan Stancioff's discharge from hospital. He was hiking Mt Olympus (to celebrate his 80th birthday...and to fund raise for Karin Dom). He doesn't look anything like any image that I've ever had of an 80 year old man! Wow!

Ciao for now.


And...the last night...a simple meal of mezze (appetizers) and a tiny baked lamb dish (about a demitasse cup size!?).

Last views of Turkey....

Istanbul to Varna, Bulgaria!! Without a seat!!

Bulgarian elections are happening on Monday, and unbeknownst to me...the current regime is subsizing Turkish Bulgarians (those who work and live in Turkey but still hold Bulgarian passports) to come back for the elections. The bus was chock a block full of would be voters taking advantage of the free travel offer! I tried to reserve a seat a few days before leaving Istanbul, but was told just to go to the HUGE bus depot and there would be no problem getting a ticket. Having gotten up early to avoid the rush rush bustle of early morning commuters...I boarded the local tram...then another hike to the subway which dropped me off directly in front of a huge amphitheatre arrangement of more than 200 bus companies. I tried every one until number 161! When they refused to sell me a ticket I finally gave in to one of the touts who had been harassing me and trying to sell me a Varna ticket! (I think!!?) So...I paid the 40 Lira and he gave me a "voucher?" for a company called IXLAKA. I went there...only #177 and my bag was hoisted onto the bus. Except, when examining my voucher I realized that the seat number was number 52...but having become familiar with the buses (intimate in fact!)I realized that none of the buses had that many seats!?

I had a ticket, with an "aisle" seat. After setting about schmoozing the bus driver...he insisted that they give me a seat! In the back of the bus...next to a wonderful seaman, a Bulgarian marine engineer returning home after a 4 month leave. He was a giant teddy bear who adopted me during the trip. He, his captain, and 1st mate and I had a great time. After a long and dusty and very much more confortable than it would have been without a seat (9 and 1/2 hours) I am happily ensconsed in Villa Stancioff..on the Black Sea! All is well here in Karin Dom children's centre. Yesterday, a representative from the EU standards committee spent the day touring and discussing future plans for disabled funding from EU. He was a social worker from Northern Ireland. His son, Ryan has decided to return to Karin Dom as a volunteer!

It's beautiful here, many changes have occurred since I visited in 2003. Both to Karin Dom and to Bulgaria in general. Many of these Eastern European beaches have become holiday resorts for the British budget travellers. Not the backpackers, but the working class families who prefer to have all inclusive holidays on the beaches.
So, the beaches are densely covered with giant hotels, and umbrellas and beer swilling big bellied red faced Brits. Not a pretty scene! Will send photos when I can.