Met another incredible young woman traveler!

Saying goodbye to Istanbul wasn't difficult. It was a big, dusty city, but a wonderful one. It's easy to navigate, get lost, get found (with many helpful smiling people-most of whom want to sell you something!)

It is such an ancient and interesting place to get lost in! Winding, undulating cobblestoned streets leading hither and thither. Almost like a Harry Potter set...that is a very ancient place with shops lining the narrow streets. Touts are everywhere. It gets a little overwhelming sometimes, but there is always a nice little shop whose owner is anxious to bring you a tiny cup of sugary tea while you regroup.

The entire city is like a huge feast for the eyes. There is beauty everywhere...whether it's crafts like the ornate pottery platters, or textiles, or carpets, or food stalls. And the people are very attractive. Really...my eyes were tired of seeing beauty everywhere! This is a photo of the young woman-Noemi from Switzerland who had traveled Kurgestan, Kazakstan, Azerbajan, Armenia, Georgia...and finally Turkey. We left Istanbul at the same time...in opposite directions...but both headed for Bulgaria!?

Now I'm here resting and relaxing in Karin Dom, awaiting Ivan Stancioff's discharge from hospital. He was hiking Mt Olympus (to celebrate his 80th birthday...and to fund raise for Karin Dom). He doesn't look anything like any image that I've ever had of an 80 year old man! Wow!

Ciao for now.


And...the last night...a simple meal of mezze (appetizers) and a tiny baked lamb dish (about a demitasse cup size!?).

Last views of Turkey....

Istanbul to Varna, Bulgaria!! Without a seat!!

Bulgarian elections are happening on Monday, and unbeknownst to me...the current regime is subsizing Turkish Bulgarians (those who work and live in Turkey but still hold Bulgarian passports) to come back for the elections. The bus was chock a block full of would be voters taking advantage of the free travel offer! I tried to reserve a seat a few days before leaving Istanbul, but was told just to go to the HUGE bus depot and there would be no problem getting a ticket. Having gotten up early to avoid the rush rush bustle of early morning commuters...I boarded the local tram...then another hike to the subway which dropped me off directly in front of a huge amphitheatre arrangement of more than 200 bus companies. I tried every one until number 161! When they refused to sell me a ticket I finally gave in to one of the touts who had been harassing me and trying to sell me a Varna ticket! (I think!!?) So...I paid the 40 Lira and he gave me a "voucher?" for a company called IXLAKA. I went there...only #177 and my bag was hoisted onto the bus. Except, when examining my voucher I realized that the seat number was number 52...but having become familiar with the buses (intimate in fact!)I realized that none of the buses had that many seats!?

I had a ticket, with an "aisle" seat. After setting about schmoozing the bus driver...he insisted that they give me a seat! In the back of the bus...next to a wonderful seaman, a Bulgarian marine engineer returning home after a 4 month leave. He was a giant teddy bear who adopted me during the trip. He, his captain, and 1st mate and I had a great time. After a long and dusty and very much more confortable than it would have been without a seat (9 and 1/2 hours) I am happily ensconsed in Villa Stancioff..on the Black Sea! All is well here in Karin Dom children's centre. Yesterday, a representative from the EU standards committee spent the day touring and discussing future plans for disabled funding from EU. He was a social worker from Northern Ireland. His son, Ryan has decided to return to Karin Dom as a volunteer!

It's beautiful here, many changes have occurred since I visited in 2003. Both to Karin Dom and to Bulgaria in general. Many of these Eastern European beaches have become holiday resorts for the British budget travellers. Not the backpackers, but the working class families who prefer to have all inclusive holidays on the beaches.
So, the beaches are densely covered with giant hotels, and umbrellas and beer swilling big bellied red faced Brits. Not a pretty scene! Will send photos when I can.

Beachıng ıt ın Fethıye....

Offlıne for the past week, but all ıs well and much travellıng and sıghtseeıng! I feel lıke I m a bıt ruıned out! I saw Aphrodısıas yesterday...but mostly felt scorched by the blazıng and relentless sun here. The temperatures are around 40 degrees and even hotter ın dırect sunlıght. Swımmıng ın the Med, enjoyıng the slower pace of beach towns along the Western coast of Turkey. Last nıght stayed at a wonderful pensıon ın Selchuk and today wıll wınd my way around Aphesıs sıtes! Tonıght wıll catch the nıght bus to Bursa....where I mıght catch the taıl end of the sılk cocoon auctıons as thıs ıs the tıme of year that the farmers come ınto Bursa to sell theır sılk ın the old sılk bazaar. Last nıght we ate sea peas...a sort of sour succulent veg steamed wıth garlıc and served chılled wıth yoghurt...plus kofte (tıny meatballs)...fava beans...green beans wıth tomatoes....paklıjan(eggplant) wıth garlıc and lemon....salad...and roasted potatoes. Thıs was all prepared by the hotel owners Mum...who ıs raucaus (though scarved!!) and has replaced the usual pıous and sombre expressıon for one of sheer mıschıevıousness...and JOY!! Thıs woman ıs really the fırst Turkısh woman I have met that seems truly happy! Most of the men seem really open and frıendly...but the women here seem to shy away...and rarely want to ınteract! We spent a good tıme ın the kıtchen last nıght together. I wıll try to upload her photo later...as thıs computer ıs cranky! The sky ıs clear blue. And I wıll leave ın a few moments to try to catch a bus to the Aphesıs sıte. There are ruıns ın every dırectıon around here. Later thıs afternoon I hope to go to Mary s house (yeah...Jesus's Mum!!) Thıs ıs where she spent the last few years of her lıfe...wıth Pete I thınk? Meetıng wıth lots of travellers wıth lots of mıddle East tales of epıcurean adventures!

Mustafapasha Cave Hotel....

Can you imagine updating one of these stone structures, and developing a small hotel inside? I couldn't get good shots of the interiors, but they have beautifully decorated rooms, with ornate tile floors and state of the art bathrooms! Atti and her husband and their 3 children have a pension in Anatoli (on the coast) and intend to open another here in Mustafapasha next year. Anyone want to join me for a more luxurious experience? My basic fare, rather spartan room in Urgup is a long cry from what Atti's place will be. But it's comfortable and clean. Ahhhh....Turkey is such a beautiful place. The history...the culture...the people...and of course...the culinary delights! Oops, forgot to mention: I discovered this Turkish delight stuff...displayed in windows like the donair meats...suspended from a large central post, twirling around like merrygoround animals! I chose pistachio with a fig base. It was absolutely ...hmmmmmmmm....delightful!

Amok in Cappodocia!!

Today I arrived in Urgup. It is a small, noisy village nestled in the mountains around the region known as Cappodocia. One of the shopkeepers apologized for the town,describing it as a wasteland for "old people", as no young people ever seemed to want to visit! Actually, I didn't see any other tourists here, except....after climbing on the local bus to Mustafapasha, another couple from Germany boarded the bus just before takeoff. The fare was 1 lira (about 80 cents) to go to the old Greek city, which was abandoned just after WW1. The German couple and I had a great day, hiking and exploring the ruins around the town. We met a family (father-Turk, Mother-Dutch) and they were in the midst of constructing the most incredible pension/home. My fantasies went wild imagining how incredible it must be to be reconstructing an old stone cave dwelling. The place was indescribeable! It had a wine cellar (with stone vats for grapes. This would become one of their sitting rooms! The views were spectacular! Needless to say....we must visit there in a year or two...and stay at their boutique cave hotel!!

Turkey in Turkey....

Exploring the cuisine of Turkey brings some rich experiences! Even the buses provide snacks and tea!!! It's all wonderfully epicur-ing for my ailing back!!! (or at least the front is being stabilized!!)
Around every corner is another surprise, and a host of helpful (though non English speaking) hosts to usher you along the way. Have I said enough about Turkish hospitality yet!? Not knowing the language doesn't seem to be as big an issue as I feared....everyone here is anxious to care for you. If I sit down....food and tea are immediately brought out from a local shop or??? The burek photos are from a small shop off the square where I intended to catch a local bus to another village. The owner served me soup for breakfast, and invited me to return that evening for "spirits". Though I haven't been leered at for years, I detected a hint of one (a memory from a distant past)...as his smile seemed to last a little too long, and his dark eyes twinkled with hidden agendas! However, my breakfast soup (lentil/tomato/yoghurt-mint)was perfect, and I think I'm accommodating to the turkish tea.

Tastıng Turkey!

Apologıes, but no access to ınternet for several days. The adventures abound here! For the fırst 4 days I attended the Internatıonal Rehab Rural Medıcıne Forum and was busy from dawn to dusk. There were many presentatıons about dısabılıty ın rural areas, ın emergency and dısaster sıtuatıons, and some very ınspırıng projects and models were dıscussed by the partıcıpants. There were representatıves from Iraq, Turkey, Netherland, Congo, Ghana, Argentına, Venezuela, Chıle, Columbıa, Brazıl, US, Canada, UK, Romanıa, Macedonıa, Chına, Korea, Belarus, Indıa, Pakıstan, Italy, and Albanıa. Sınce ıt was a forum. there were many chances to meet ın groups and dıscuss topıcs ıncludıng Communıty based rehabılıtatıon projects, and Rehab educatıon requıred for ınternatıonal programmes. We all were very passıonate about these topıcs, so ıt was very, very dıffıcult to break the bonds that we'd forged wıth each ohter...when we had to say goodbye. Today I vısıted the hospıtal on campus and had lunch wıth several Turkısh PT's. The hospıtal cafeterıa served better food than most of our restaurants! We had a meatball soup wıth a creamy-lemony base, noodles whıch were frıed wıth walnuts, a delıcıous salad loaded wıth fresh tomatoes and mınt. The carmelızed hevah had to go ınto my purse for later, as I was too stuffed to eat ıt all! Needless to say, there ıs no such thıng as goıng hungry or thırsty ın Turkey! The hospıtalıty here ıs unsurpassed by anywhere I've travelled. Everyone seems lıke they are awaıtıng expectantly for you to requıre help. and there are usually two or three people surroundıng you to assıst! I thought ıt would requıre a lot of courage to travel here, but one never feels alone...as everyone here has been soooo frıendly and generous! Wıll forward photos when I can! Tomorrow wıll head to the faıry mountaıns ın Capadoccıa to explore the underground ancıent cıtıes and nurse my sunburns.

Off to Turkey!!

We've had the most fun with our "other family" here in Devon. Tonight is our last night and we were fed another incredible Ahmed extravaganza. This time it was Thai food, and all the curry was made from absolute scratch. There is such a difference when all fresh ginger, basil, cilantro, cumin, etc is used to make the green curry.

So, I'm travelling very light, as here on the journey is solo. All set to go, and testing out the transport with Ahmed before packing up. Tomorrow we catch the early morning train. Jan and Brownie will head back home, and I'm off to Turkey.

Brownie at the Malmsmead Reception site...

This tiny village is still intact, and we spoke with John Berge, grandson of the caterer. The reception hall has been converted into two shops, but looks much the same as it did several hundred years ago. We first drove across the bridge, but then decided to drive through the river!! Aging dangerously is our motto! Adventures abound.

Retracing the Wedding and Honeymoon locations!

We've had a wonderful time driving crazily around Exmoor, finding all Brownie's favourite spots including the site of her wedding at the Medieval church of Oare, and where she stayed with her uncle and aunt at the cottage at Oare Manor. All these memories flooding back to Brownie as we visited the reception site at Malmsmead, and the honeymoon hotel perched high above Woody Bay. Exhausted, we traipsed around madly, resting only once each afternoon to take "(Devon)cream tea." Here are a few photos of Brownie en routel

Views from the lower stairs....

Browne and her Scots

Brownie was escorted up the stairs by the most remarkably polite and deliciously handsome men in kilts. The views were spectacular!

Brownie on Princess Anne's Seat

Lunch with Princess Anne...

Yesterday, we were treated to a posh lunch (set menu-photo to follow as soon as I can get the camera uploaded!)

While we were walking along the shaded, serene path to the Priestfield Hotel, there were many Scottish police afoot. The hotel staff declined our request to have a drink on the upstairs veranda with very furtive responses. We finally saw the darkened windows of the silver Jaguar being lead along the long winding driveway and understood why. As we hovered at the window trying to see who the famous personality was, someone whispered...."It's Princess Anne", and sure enough, shortly after that, she began sprinting (elegantly) towards us (all her cavalcade were visibly upset by her spontaneous detour).

Though we didn't actually dine with her, we followed her retinue ...up the stairs...into UK's most elegant powder room! Brownie said the seat was still warm, and had a "royal air" about it! After our fabulous lunch we reclined in the room she'd dined in sipping cups of tea and enjoying the opulent atmosphere! There were more than 150 different canapes served to her. No, they'd been whisked, along with Anne into the waiting car. Later I'll send you the photo of her and her handsome guards, escorting Brownie up the stairs. Ahhhh...delicious holiday! Now THAT was magical!

Lunch with Princess Anne...

Look what we found in our suitcase!!!!

Hey! We (Brownie, who's 95 this year!, Jan and I) are now in Scotland!! We flew into Glasgow this am, and drove down to Edinburgh. We're a bit foggy, as is the weather, but thought I'd forward you all a photo of these beautiful Shitake mushrooms that Jenny (Brownie's niece) has just grown. This "cake" is only several days old!! Mushrooms seem to be on everyone's agenda these days! I understood the mushroom plugs took months to mature into wee little shroomies, but these are going out of control after just a few days. Now we have to decide what to do with all these Shitakes? Please send menus and recipes.

Yesterday we harvested the first pea and fava bean sprouts from the Hugel bed-permaculture experiment that Richard made several months ago. We were trying to find room to plant the heritage tomatoes that we've been coddling for the past 2 months, awaiting WARMTH. It was a bit windy, and quite chilly, but into the bed they went. And, for supper, we ate garlic, artichoke infused pea/bean sprouts with the incredible cilantro pesto that Nigel made from his winter garden beds. Sublime.

Fresh from the market!

Last night, Marilee made Palak Paneer from the spinach she bought at the market. We got lamb sausages, shiny deep aubergine, home made pepper-spelt noodles, leek-cheese scones, and a loaf of cranberry-hazelnut spelt sourdough that makes outrageous toast! Here is a photo of some of the yellow and red cherry tomatoes, and a big, giant, very fragile beefsteak tomato that has a few bumps and bruises. Ahhhh...all this chilly weather and now it seems to be spring at last!

These are amazing flavours!

Treasures

This morning we headed to the first Farmers' Market for this year. We found teeny red and yellow gems, tasty tomatoes grown indoors organically. Before we left the market we'd eaten several small cakes and I bought the last Brandywine tomato plant for Kelly!